A dinner Scabin Among the ten restaurants where must go at least once in life you no doubt Combal.Zero Rivoli because the kitchen of David Scabin can like it or not but his approach to food certainly does not leave us indifferent.
The entrance to the restaurant is via intercom and there is almost a fear reverential in crossing the entrance and in crossing the room to reach your table. The interior is elegant without being pompous and plaster: beautiful large round tables and impeccable mise en place.
We are presented with the paper water and wines. In the meantime we order an appetizer.
The bread is served on request: There are three different types, sage, plain or with nuts and great breadsticks. To begin
order a Pinot Blanc Hofstatter : very nice and not too aggressive.
The welcome of the house consists of two samples: sweet garlic cream, fennel and orange granita and ravioli caponata. Without detracting from the freshness of the fennel with garlic cream, ravioli is really superlative: it seems to find her grandmother's dishes, the flavors we loved as children whose only scent triggers
us in a storm memories.
agree to take all the Combal.zero menu that allows us to roam between different flavors and ingredients.
Alba arrives as first course of cod with tomato beef heart: the pot is brought together with two slices of fried flat bread and a glass of stout, strong and full-bodied flavor that creates a sophisticated contrast with the delicacy of the cod and the acidity of the tomato.
Continue with oysters lemongrass, chilli and pineapple marinated to eat in one bite to taste the sea, sun and salt. The lemongrass pineapple cleanse the mouth giving a cool finish.
Go to the next dish: peppered mussels, cuttlefish and octopus Luciana, where the simplicity of steamed octopus prepares the palate dell'impepata explosion of taste.
Here is the "Matryoshka" Tropea, the famous onion which has divided the food critics: who the critics and those who hosannas for me is simply brilliant. Yoghurt, liquorice and caviar are revealed after puff pastry melting in a completely new and intriguing taste.
pasta salad with lobster bisque and five spices: the different shapes of pasta, creating a nice visual also in color, also the sauce for seafood is truly outstanding.
We finished the first bottle of wine and decide to move on to something more substantial, then order a boundaries Lis Neris : excellent, good structure and very suitable to accompany the dishes that follow.
Foie gras goose few, shitake, pak choi, dashi, language and emulsion of olive oil: not a lover of language I had to change his mind completely, there are no unpleasant food preparations but wrong, in fact, both the language and the foie gras is delicious and the broth in which they are immersed perfectly enhances the hearty flavor.
Another important dish: pork with coffee. We serve the most delicious pork, one that lies just under the rind and coffee sauce balances the natural body of flesh.
Who does not like meat dish is offered a very interesting around the world in five soups, tasty and satisfying.
continue with the p
Atata Horizontal cream Parmentier, coal, potatoes, dumplings, raw salad, peel fried, mashed, "Casey." the middle of the table is laid in a dish with different types of potatoes used in the preparation, we are also given a leaflet with the explanations and captions. I greatly appreciate the continuous play of contrast between soft and crunchy, salty and sweet.
We gorged but we can not exempt ourselves from the tasting dish that can not wait to start the dinner: cold fusion. Difficult to put into words something that even now I can not comprehend. I think this dish is the one that best represents Scabin: the ingredients that appear normal, even banal, in the hands of the chef-creator become completely leaving you breathless.
Imagine an egg marinated for 12 hours in sugar, imagine that this egg is left only the outside and the inside is a delicious custard bomb that explodes in the mouth, tickles every inch of your palate and every spoonful come as a slap in the face of cold, sour, sweet , juicy, effervescent. There is no escape, cold fusion will remain etched in your memory for a fire long, long time.
microparfait Finally comes a white chocolate sauce, chocolate Guanaja 70%: excellent, the only flaw is that they arrived the day after the sample. No contest, not even the same league.
also exquisite chocolates to accompany coffee, carefully selected by a major paper.
Before the account for a laugh, balloons filled with helium that are inspired to become all in funny cartoons of Donald Duck: fun and above all liberating. Nice to see business people and serious-looking prim let go and return, for once, children.
We would like to chat with the chef but, unfortunately, was absent, even for a valid reason: the Congress of Identity Golose. Too bad, it will be for next time. Because there will be a next time.
Price: € 234 per person (To point out that we got a plate in addition to the menu and two selections of cheese.)
Value for Money: is definitely not for everyone but it's worth it. Really.
Score: 10